Category Archives: Garden Structure

Building An Easy And Cost-effective Greenhouse On Your Back Yard

Thorough planning and preparation is essential before starting your greenhouse project. Putting up a greenhouse need not be time-consuming or expensive. Your greenhouse design will very much depend on your home’s home architecture, space and plants that you want to grow, cost and available location. Make sure that your greenhouse should provide the environment suitable for your chosen type of plants.


Your greenhouse must be built in a site where it will get the full and concentrated sunlight.

Your best option is the southeast side of your house or shade of trees. All day sunlight is best, though also consider the morning sunlight coming from the east side because this is adequate for most plants, as it permits the course food production to start early so then progress is maximized.

The location on the east captures most of the November up to February sunshine.

Deciduous trees like oak and maple can shade the greenhouse effectively from the strong late afternoon sun during the summer but they must not shade or cover your greenhouse during the morning. These trees likewise permit maximum sun exposure during the winter due to the shedding of their foliage during fall.

Your greenhouse must not be located beside trees having leaves all year as it will block the winter sun. You must maximize greenhouse exposure to winter sun especially if your greenhouse will be used year-round.

Another necessity for the location of your greenhouse is good drainage. When needed, construct your greenhouse higher than the ground so as irrigation and rainwater will easily drain away.

Light that is required by certain types of plants that you will grow, water, electricity, heat and protection from strong wind are other factors that should also be considered.

Also, you need to set up a workplace and an area for storage of your supplies in your greenhouse.

Here is a simple and easy to construct greenhouse:


5 pieces of 20 foot each of 5/8 inch rebar, cut into 1/3’s – 6 foot in length.

7 pieces of 20 foot schedule 40 PVC drilled with a hole size 3/16 to º inch dead center at 10 feet.

84 feet that is cut into 4 foot lengths of Ω schedule 40 PVC

80 pieces size 2X4 wood (treated).

4 pieces fence posts, 8 foot in length (treated).

Size 40X24 feet UV polyethylene, stabilized

60 pieces 2 Ω inches fence staples

1. Begin by extending a thin rope or string where the two long sides of your greenhouse should be. Then pound the 6 foot rebar in, each with a distance of 4 feet away from each other, in a straight line and allowing 48 inches to protrude from the soil or ground.

2. Nail the 2X6 runner on to the bare stakes. This will provide you with something so as to nail on the polyethylene later. You may use a ì60 2 Ω inch fence staples.

3. Slide in the PVC pieces (20 inch) over the rebar stakes, making certain that no sharp points are exposed, such as rebar, wire ends, rough pipes, etc.

4. Put the PVC pieces (20 foot) on the rebar stakes. You need to have somebody do one side as you also do the other side carefully and slightly at each time. Make sure that you drilled holes parallel to the ground.

5. Slide the wire all through the PVC holes and through the 8 PVC (4foot) pieces along the roof.

6. So as the ribs will not shift horizontally, you need to wire together the 4 foot PVC pipe lengths with either baling or copper wire. Make certain that the wire is wrapped so that the PVC pipe is forced inward.

7. Construct now the two end walls and the doors. Use vertical posts (4X4) 10 foot length and buried 3 or 4 feet for the doorway frame. Make certain that the end walls are not floppy and must stay vertically so that the PVC will not separate. Your door must be very tight so that the wind will not be able to inflate the greenhouse.

8. Drive some nails into the post’s base horizontally of the posts and submerge them to the ground.

9. With somebody’s help, and each person on each side holding the plastic, slide it over the rib cage and then attach the ends by wrapping the plastics end around lath pieces then nail the lath to the end walls and also along the foundation.

10. Be creative and add a few of your personal touches.

All done! Have fun in your greenhouse!

How to Build a Walkway in 5 Easy Steps

WalkwaycollageWalkways are an attractive and useful addition to just about any property. Whether it’s an aesthetically appealing stone walkway around your home, or a utilitarian gravel path heading from your house to your barn, paths and walkways serve a number of purposes. In high-traffic areas of your lawn, they look much better than flattened, dead grass. In the winter, they save your lawn from the torture of a plow or snow blower. And in rainy weather, I know I’d rather walk on a stone walkway than on the soggy grass!

It’s not as difficult as it may seem to build a walkway on your property. Building a walkway or path requires just a few steps:

1. Choose your location and materials.

This will probably be pretty obvious if you have already considered adding a walkway or path to your yard. But in case you haven’t decided, start by considering where you could most benefit from a walkway and what material would look  and function the best. Consider areas that see a lot of foot traffic, the path you often take when bringing wood into the house during the winter, or where a walkway would look best within your landscape. Adding a walkway can even be a way to add value to your property, as homes with well-landscaped yards often have significantly higher price tags than those without any landscaping. As far as materials, consider brick, cut stone, natural stone, gravel, crushed stone, or mulch. Look at each material’s price and practicality for its location as you decide.

2. Stake it out.

Use garden stakes with string tied between them to mark the path. Or, for curvier walkways, mark the boundaries with a garden hose or rope.

3. Dig it up.BOS0155

In most cases, you’ll need to dig out at least 4 inches of earth to lay a layer of gravel underneath your preferred walkway material. This will allow it to drain properly, keep it level, and save it from sinking or shifting over the years. For climates where the ground freezes, dig down 5″ to 8″. If you live in a milder climate, 4″ will suffice. The DR Towable Backhoe is a great tool for this type of project because it’s small enough to fit into tight spaces, has interchangeable buckets so you can choose the size that’s best for your project, and gets the job done much more quickly than digging by hand.

4. Add a base layer.

Once you’ve dug out the walkway to the appropriate depth, line the edges with a flexible metal edging (available at hardware stores). Then, fill with gravel or crushed stone, ensuring that it is level and slightly higher at the center than at the edges. This will allow water to drain off the walkway. You may also want to add a layer of sand over the base layer of gravel, depending on your final chosen walkway material. For example, this will make laying stone a lot easier, because you’ll be able to nestle each stone into just the right position.

5. Lay your chosen material.powerwagonC-12

Finally, lay your stone, brick, mulch, or other material over the top. Make sure it’s level and arranged just the way you like. Transporting materials like this, as well as your base layer of gravel, are projects that the DR Powerwagon is a boss at. Haul up to 800 lbs. over just about any terrain with almost zero effort – all you do is steer, and the DR does the rest!

Building A Garden Fence

Building A Garden Fence
Building A Garden Fence

They are privacy and shelter are two important things in the garden. The latter is often a problem in gardens which are exposed to cold prevailing winds. Both these points are important not only for the gardener himself, but also for the plants in his garden

Young growth can be severely damaged by cold winds and frequent buffeting will cause a great deal of root disturbance. Although privacy and shelter can be provided by trees and shrubs, fences also have an important part to play.

The choice of fencing must never be undertaken lightly, for serious consideration must be given to its appearance and construction.

Strength is very important. A fence is only as strong as its supports. Most fences are supplied with strong posts, usually 4-6in (10-15cm) square. Sometimes concrete posts are supplied; these are extremely strong. Strength of timber also depends on the prevention of rot, and unless cedar wood is used (except for posts), all timber should be treated with a suitable preservative. Creosote can be used, although it should be allowed to soak into the timber for several weeks before plants are trained against it. Unless this is done, there is the danger of stem and leaf scorch and its use is not generally recommended where plants are to be grown against or near a fence. A safer treatment consists of the use of copper naphthenate preservatives such as the green, horticultural grades of Cuprinol or Solignum.

Types of fencing

The most popular types are purchased as units or panels. Usually they are from 5-6ft (1.5-1.8m) in length with heights varying from about 3-6ft ( 90cm-1.8m). A solid or close boarded fence is, as its name implies, a design which consists of upright or horizontal strips of wood, some 6in (15cm) wide and 1in (2-2.5cm) thick. The strips are nailed to two or more supporting rails at the rear of the panel. These provide complete privacy and wind protection.

Weather board fencing consists of wedge-shaped strips of wood, (1 in 2cm) in thickness at one edge, tapering to 0.5 in (1cm) at the other. Each strip overlaps the next by about 1 in(2cm). The advantage of this design is that it is virtually peep proof.

Trellis fencing is suited as a support for climbing and trailing plants. It is not a strong design but can be used to good effect for covering unsightly walls or as an additional part of a fence design. It usually consists of laths of wood 1 by 3/4in ( 2.5 by 1.5cm) thick, fastened across each other vertically and horizontally to form 6-8in (15-20cm) squares. The laths are attached to a more substantial framing of 1 or 1in (2.5 or 3cm) square timber.

One of the latest advances in fence production is the sale of kits which are so accurately machined and complete that even an unskilled person can erect panels without any trouble. With these kits have come new ideas in design, and many can be made up into contemporary designs. This is especially useful where bold effects are required in the construction of patios. Many ultra-modern properties are being built and this advance in fence appearance will be welcomed by their owners.

Fencing can also be provided in the form of chain link or mesh netting. The best quality is heavily galvanized to withstand the rigors of the weather.

A more recent innovation is the plastic coating of chain link over the galvanized wire. Standard colors of dark green, black, white, yellow and light green can be obtained.